The Monkey’s Tail

How many types of birds do you typically see in your back yard? I’ve counted maybe a dozen at different times – blue jays, cardinals, wrens, robins, pigeons… – the usual urban North American coterie.

In the Amazon rainforest there are 1,300 species and counting.

According to the World Wildlife Fund, of all the known species of creatures on the earth, 1 in 10 are found in the Amazon basin – “40,000 plant species, 3,000 freshwater fish species, and more than 370 types of reptiles. Over 2,000 new species of plants and vertebrates, including a monkey that purrs like a cat, have been described since 1999.” It’s mind-boggling.

The first thing you notice walking through the Amazon Jungle is a battle for life – layers and layers of plant life climbing on top of each other, growing on each other, feeding on each other. Jostling for every nutrient they can wring out of their complex environment.

Parasitic vines will eventually choke the life out of a tree

You look up through layers of green to catch a glimpse of the sky, or downward to a dense layer of new, old and decaying growth littering the ground. Nothing goes to waste in a rainforest.

Layers upon layers cover the forest floor

The jungle is home to myriad creatures as well – carpenter ants carting massive pieces of leaves like banners, spiders clinging to tree trunks, huge butterflies flitting in and out, secretive capuchin monkeys clustered on branches.

A black tarantula ventures a couple of legs out from its burrow near the top right

To celebrate World Rainforest Day this week on June 22, this blog is kicking off a Peru travel series with a peek at exploring that very jungle.

In Peru, typically visitors access the jungle along one of the Amazon’s tributaries, flying from Cusco to one of the jungle’s great frontier towns, Puerto Maldonado. From the Andes mountains your plane swoops down over masses of dense green-ness, sadly patched with barren brown pieces of denuded land, to a murky river snaking through the thick jungle growth.

How fantastic it must have been for the first intrepid explorers to be faced with the undisturbed masses of vegetation, and how daunting to explore for months slowly moving through unknown and difficult terrain.

We arrived at the beginning of the rainy season, easily, landing in muddy, ramshackle, colourful Puerto Maldonado, where any useful supplies for a trip into the jungle can be bought and loaded onto your transportation to the river dock.

Once at the bare-bones wooden dock, we boarded a long motorized canoe that zipped along the Madre de Dios river for just an hour and a half, past steep banks dotted with wrecked wooden canoes and the odd small cabin, residents cruising by in their own motorboats bringing supplies back home from the town, and people using illegal gold-dredging methods that destroy the river ecosystem.

Transferring to our motorized canoe in Puerto Maldonado

The river banks look the same, I imagine, as they must have for the early adventurers, but the river traffic is a modern concoction. The river is wide and flanked by tall green walls of trees – palm, wild papaya and mango, and many other kinds that we didn’t recognize.

Illegal river mining

Eventually we were brought gently up to a jetty peeking out of a clearing in the green wall – the access point to our comfortably rustic lodge, the Eco Amazonia. No hacking our way through the jungle – porters collected our baggage and led the way on raised walkways to the main lodge to check in. Had we arrived a few weeks later, the river would have risen right up to those walkways – the lodge even thoughtfully provides racks of loaner rubber boots for its guests.

Arriving at the lodge

The lodge wasn’t one of the luxury versions, but I loved its green-meshed and wood-sided buildings strewn amongst the brilliant red- and pink-flowered ginger plants with vivid green leaves.

Colourful meals were served in the large dining room – our first lunch led off with a fresh avocado salad, followed by a mysterious banana leaf-wrapped packet that, once we untied the string, revealed a delicious chicken and vegetable rice pilaf.

Our raised cabins were ranged in rows along the grounds, past brilliant green lizards, little brown agouti and parrots lurking in the palm trees. Here we finally heard all the sounds you expect to find, from insects and birds and monkeys in the jungle that surrounded the lodge property, just a short bridge-walk away.

A small agouti roams across the grounds

The accommodations were basic but quite comfortable, straddling the line between civilized and adventurous. Steps lead up to a screened porch, then a large sleeping area with several twin beds, and a dimly-lit bathroom that intermittently had warm water in the shower. At night we could hear the preliminary light rains spattering down on the corrugated tin roofs, and the insects humming safely outside the walls.

There are a lot of things to do in the jungle after a meal and a cup of the thick, dark, concentrated Peruvian coffee that has to be thinned with water to be drinkable.

On our first afternoon we were taken across the river to the lodge’s Monkey Island, a sanctuary for primates rescued from the pet trade. There are golden and brown capuchins, and a particularly cheeky female spider monkey who loves to pluck plastic water bottles from visitors and bite off the caps. I was standing next to a small feeding platform, taking a few photos, when she decided to run across, climb my shoulder and sit on my head, wrapping her long prehensile tail around my neck for balance so tightly that I had to wiggle my finger in between to keep from choking. I could hear cameras going off furiously while I tried to see past a screen of black fur. After a minute or so she’d had enough of her perch on my head and uncoiled herself to see who else looked interesting.

Our spider monkey visitor

As evening fell and we made our way back to the canoe, we could see the deep tracks of a caiman in the cracked dry earth of the river’s edge. Some of us took the opportunity to do a night canoe ride by paddle on the river in the hopes of spotting a black caiman or two along the banks, their eyes gleaming in the darkness. It was eerie and silent, gliding softly through the water under hundreds of stars – that was when I felt closest to the early explorers.

Our long hike through the jungle itself was led by a genuine Amazonian native, Marco, who’d grown up in one of the traditional villages and knew the forest like the back of his hand. He showed us some of the many plants that the villagers have used for a long time to promote fertility, heal maladies, even to send messages – one of the trees makes such a loud, carrying sound when it’s hit with a piece of wood that people would use it as a locator signal.

This tree holds the source of extracts for both male virility (the purplish protrusions) and female fertility (the green vine winding up the trunk)

We ducked under fallen trees, crossed weed-choked streams, took photos of each other dwarfed by just the roots of towering jungle trees. And yes, you can actually swing on the vines.

Our guide demonstrating the proper vine swing technique

Our main destination was an oxbow lake well-hidden by wild papaya trees. There’s a tall viewing platform that some people climbed, but we chose to be paddled around the small lake in a canoe, watching ducks swim along the fringes and a black-collared hawk look for prey from its perch on an old branch. Back on shore, butterflies of all kinds flitted around us and landed on our gear. We felt miles away from anywhere.

In the evenings after dinner everyone congregated in the bar and explored the many intriguing cocktails created by the staff. I believe I sampled an Anaconda and perhaps even a Jaguar, perfect after a day in the jungle.

Our three-week adventure to Peru and Bolivia included just two days in the rainforest, so we weren’t able to catch sight of the area’s most famous residents, like the elusive jaguar or the giant river otters, but it was a window into a mysterious green world that forms one of the greatest natural wonders of our planet. Even today we know so little about it, a place with over 16,000 species of trees alone, and a staggering estimated 2.5 million species of insects!

The sight of a big, bright blue Morpho butterfly landing delicately on a leaf in front of you is a magical thing.

There are numerous rainforests around the world, all rapidly dwindling because of our greed. To learn more about these biodiversity hotspots and how you can help save as much as possible, check out the Rainforest Rescue website.

All photos by Erica Jurus and rights reserved.

Weekly Photo Challenge – Threshold

 

Flying over the Amazon Basin - photo by E. Jurus
Flying over the Amazon Basin – photo by E. Jurus

This week I feel like I’m standing on a personal threshold – week 2 of my hubby’s post-hip surgery is a new page. He’s moving around very well, the incision is healing well, and he’s actually enjoying the use of his now pain-free hip joint. The surgery on the other hip doesn’t seem so intimidating now, and I can envision a day in a few months when he’ll be able to walk around with me once more as we adventure across the world. There may be a lot of problems to deal with in our modern society, but we are truly blessed in the medical field; just a few decades ago my hubby would have spent the rest of his life in a wheelchair instead of being able to walk around almost normally just a couple of weeks after having an artificial hip take over the duties. To anyone who’s going to have the surgery done, and to their loved ones, just hang in there – recovery proceeds amazingly quickly.

My response to the photo challenge, though, is a picture that has many threshold meanings for me: we’re coming in for a landing in the Amazon Jungle, watching muddy brown tributaries of one of the greatest water systems in the world snake through lush green foliage, about to adventure into the deep dark jungles of South America.

As we approached the airport in Puerto Maldonado, though, we could also see with our own eyes areas denuded of foliage, razed by clear-cutting. The average person might think, ‘So what, it will grow back’, but in the jungle things don’t grow back. The soil quality, ironically, is very poor, and is supported entirely by the decay of the vegetation and animal droppings. Once an area is clear-cut, it never recovers.

A clear-cut tract of Amazon rainforest near Puerto Maldonado - photo by E. Jurus
A clear-cut tract of Amazon rainforest near Puerto Maldonado – photo by E. Jurus

 

We are not heading for a global environmental disaster, we’re already in the midst of one. Headlines over the past year have been appalling:

Arctic ice is melting at an alarming rate, to the point where polar bears are drowning because they can’t find ice floes close enough to swim to before they die of exhaustion. Arctic warming had a profound effect on this past winter in North America, forcing a polar vortex to remain in place over much of the continent for months.

  • Antarctic ice has been receding and breaking up for the past decade.
  • Clouds of dust from the Sahara are creating health issues in the UK.
  • Rapacious palm oil companies are destroying our rainforests, the lungs of our planet and the home of hundreds of animal species.
  • Not content with destroying the surface of our planet, industrialists are now digging the planet out from under us with new technology far more invasive than even traditional mining.

The list is long. As we boarded our motorized canoe at Puerto Maldonado and zipped up the Madre de Dios River to get to our lodge deep in the Tambopata Reserve, we passed several gold-mining barges. Amazon gold mining is incredibly destructive to the rainforest habitat and environment. The television program you may be enjoying on the History Channel is actually a heartbreaking showcase of man ravaging our planet. 

Amazon gold miners - photo by E. Jurus
Amazon gold miners – photo by E. Jurus

 

We spent two glorious days in the Amazon rainforest, enjoying the rich diversity and beauty of a resource that may not be around in our children’s generation. If you have any desire to see it, go now, while you still can.

The wonderful lush foliage of the Amazon rainforest - photo by E. Jurus
The wonderful lush foliage of the Amazon rainforest – photo by E. Jurus

 

Our planet exists as a single interconnected ecosystem, like our own bodies – a failure of one organ will have a cascade effect that threatens all the rest. The Amazon basin covers 2.1 million square miles, roughly two-thirds the size of the Sahara, which was itself once a forested area. What do you think will happen when the Amazon, the largest green lung and most diverse animal habitat on our planet, disappears?

We are on the threshold of complete disaster. Everyone needs to become proactive now to, quite literally, save our planet. Educate yourself about what’s happening, sign petitions, stop using products that are harmfully harvested or grown…if we don’t, our planet will likely be uninhabitable in less than 100 years.

The BBC website is a great place to start learning more.